One of my favourite things to do in any destination that I feel reasonably safe in, is to let myself wander without aim or intention. Doing so, I find the most amazing little gems, pretty hidden nooks, secret gardens and enchanting sights. Get lost with me in Marsala Sicily and let’s see what we can uncover.
Old Town
What attracts me to most places I visit is the older quarters. These areas offer such historical beauty, charming architecture and unusual things to see. Marsala is the fifth largest municipality in Sicily and appears to be a working-class city. Almost all of it is concrete apartment complexes built within the last century.
However, in one area there are a group of older churches and connecting them, a maze of narrow streets. This place I have dubbed ‘Old Town’ and is where I find the beauty in Marsala. As I walk around these roadways, I notice the architecture of the residences is quite plain, but enhanced with pretty ironwork, especially on some of the balconies.
From time to time, one can see a sliver of medieval architecture that has been spared destruction. These are usually stone door frames that stand out so beautifully against their more recent restorations.
I peek into some piazzas and wander through alleys. Enchanted am I when I see an archway that leads me to another part of a street yet undetected. I spot little snippets of history and my heart sings to know that these have not succumbed to the bulldozer.
Churches
The main square holds the big cathedral called St. Thomas of Canterbury or Chiesa Madre (Mother Church). This baroque beauty is lovely to see both inside and out.
Just one street away however is my favourite in Marsala, Chiesa dei Purgatorio. The exterior is quite ornate. I adore the large frontal columns wrapped in pomegranates. Inside is the quiet beauty of white, creams and gold decoration. Something I have never seen in a church before too. Instead of wooden pews, here we have gold velvet theatre seating!
As I explore further afield, I walk into a piazza and see what I now know to be the Convent of the Carmine. Today, most of the convent has been turned into a luxury hotel, definitely worth staying at if you have the funds. Pausing to admire the exterior of this peaceful square and all the detailing is such a lovely experience.
Outside of Old Town
Exiting the oldest part of Marsala, there are treasures to be seen and these take the form of the old gates! There are two left, the most photographed and elaborate is the Garibaldi Gate which stands nestled up beside a church.
Now I find myself having left the older part of the city and wandering towards the coast. The first thing I see is the Teatro Cine, an imposing building constructed during the Fascism. Originally it had a stone screen and held up to 600 patrons.
To the right of this I spot a garden! Hoping to find some greenery and colour, I head over. Through the gates I go and enter into Giardino Cavallotti, a garden created to fill a vast hole that was the result of the demolition of the old fort that used to stand here. Today this green space is dry and dusty with no flowers. The fountains are not functional, however there are a few interesting statues. I notice residents come here for a quiet morning stroll.
At the far end, I find one remnant of that old fort. A single tower with a ramp leading walkers to this upper portion of the park. Scattered around the grounds here, are pieces of the old bastion, bits of columns and architectural details.
Religious Monuments
One of the most charming things I encounter during my exploration of Marsala is the number of religious monuments. Embedded into the walls of these older streets, I see little windows. Inset is usually a Christian figure with trinkets scattered along the bottom ledge.
Sometimes the windows are small and hardly noticeable and other times, they encompass an entire corner of the building. Some are framed and protected by glass, others are merely a painting or the remnants of one, long since destroyed by the elements.
Getting lost in Marsala is a great way to see the core of the city. I get a feel for the people living here, wandering around these dusty narrow streets. I still don’t have an answer as to why most of the history has been erased, but I am always delighted when I see a small gem peeking through. There is beauty to be found in Marsala, one must dig deep, broaden their view and it seeps in slowly like an incoming tide.
