I have been looking forward to swimming in this water for as long as I can remember. It’s a fascinating place and one I’m excited to explore. Join me for a fun day trip to the Dead Sea in Jordan.
Getting There
Currently visiting Madaba, there is no direct bus that I can take from here. I would have to bus into the capital city Amman and then take another one to the Dead Sea. Instead, I have chosen to take an Uber which initially showed a direct route west and the cost was quoted as 12-15DR ($24-30 CAD).
I hop in the vehicle and right away the driver passes by the street that is showing on my app. Not worrying, I keep track of where we are going. The app reroutes and again, the driver passes by this new route. This scenario carries on for the first 20 minutes and I become increasingly nervous. Being a solo female traveller, in a vehicle with a non-English speaking male, I am under extra anxiety during these trips. This behaviour really starts to concern me.
As we driver further and further north, away from my destination, all I can do is hope that eventually the route will change in my favour. And it does. Phew. The Uber driver has chosen a very long route to stay on a major highway that takes me almost to Amman and then back down to the Dead Sea.
By the time I arrive, I have been in the car for 50 minutes, a trip that should have taken no more than 20. The final cost to me is 25DR or $50 CAD. I contact Uber and tell them what happened, and they say they can do nothing for me and will not agree to match the price that I was initially quoted. Lesson number one today, while using Uber.
Grand East Hotel Security
How does one access the Dead Sea in Jordan? There are public beaches, but I have been told by locals that most of these are closed because there are hardly any tourists right now. They also don’t have facilities such as showers and such.
Instead, I have opted to purchase a day pass at a hotel. When asking around, over the past week or so, I am continually urged to visit the Grand East Hotel for this purpose.
The Uber has delivered me to the front gate up at the highway. The gate worker approaches the car, asks for my passport, which is safely back at the hotel. I have a photo on my phone for just such occasions, so he takes that back to his cubicle. While I wait in the car, the minutes are passing. I’m getting antsy and look into the office where I can see the worker scrolling through my phone!
I instantly panic, jump from the car and begin to walk towards the cubicle. The gate worker has seen me and immediately comes out and hands me my phone. I’m completely shaken by this but take my day pass voucher and walk down the hill to the hotel entrance. Second lesson of the day learned!
The Hotel
Feeling very cavernous and empty, I walk through the massive lobby and towards where I think the beach area is. No one approaches me or stops me along the way.
I head downstairs, and out to where I see swimming pools. Past this is a deserted looking area with a volleyball court and finally I see the Dead Sea!
It’s a walk down the paved road or a set of stone steps down to the muddy beach. Here are a few rows of sun beds, an outdoor shower and a single lifeguard. There are a few tourists here having a swim already.
The Beach
Firstly, I explore the beach including either side of the roped area. One end is particularly interesting as it is covered in salt! A white beach of salt crystals. How unusual and fascinating.
Now that I have had an explore, I am feeling brave enough to go for a swim. This beach area of the Dead Sea in Jordan is 1,400 feet below sea level. It is predominantly a dense and silty mud. Not slippery but compact and hard. There are rocks in the water too, and I don’t have water shoes so will be careful where I place my feet.
The water of the Dead Sea is 34% salt. Because of this, there is no marine life except for a unique bacteria. It also means that when humans swim here, we are completely buoyant, bobbing on top of the water and unable to sink.
The temperature at the beach is a full 10 degrees warmer than in Madaba city that is a mere 20 minutes away. The water feels cool but not cold. Usually, a complete chicken when it comes to entering cold water, I manage this okay.
The Water
Before I know it, I’m in the water and floating around with the biggest grin on my face! It’s a lovely feeling, to be so buoyant. I try flipping onto my stomach and while it is certainly possible, the water really flips you around quite quickly.
Its recommended not to shave or wax or have any open wounds no matter how small before you swim here. The water will sting badly. I have sensitive skin, and it does indeed feel a little uncomfortable for me and takes some getting used to.
The water feels heavy and oily. It’s strange to the touch, and watching it lap the shores in such a languid fashion is also a strange sight. Each dip into this sea should be roughly 20 minutes, at which point the guard will ask you to hop out. After a rinse off, I bask in the warm sunshine, on the lounger, enjoying the views of mountainous Israel across the sea.
Mud
Now its time for some childlike fun! One of the things everyone wants to do here is the mud spa. At this beach, there are large concrete barrels that have been filled with the local mud. This you slather all over your body and let dry. Rich in minerals such as magnesium, sulphur, calcium, potassium and bromide, its an elixir for the skin and body.
This mud has been studied and was found to have various therapeutic effects. The most popular uses are for arthritis, especially of the knees and its anti aging effects. The mud is slimy, doesn’t smell that bad, dries very slowly and is difficult to get off. Another dip in the beautiful salty sea is in order now.
Salt
The Dead Sea is not a sea at all, in fact, it’s a lake and is now shrinking at an alarming rate each year. When I arrived, I was not sure what I would find as far as salt formations. There are specific places you can drive to along the coast, where you will see magnificent salt forms.
Here at this beach, this is what I found. There are several different types of crystals piling up. Most are a haphazard shape, but I did start to find these cubical ones. After I spotted a few, the hunt was on, and I was obsessed with finding them. Look at how beautiful they are!
Did you know that the Egyptians used salt from this lake for mummification?
Lunch
The day pass to the Grand East Hotel includes a meal at the buffet. The pass does not include any drinks or use of towels. After I had spent hours languishing in the sunshine and waters of the Dead Sea I made my way inside.
On the ground floor is a large restaurant with an average buffet. The savoury items consist of salads, rice, vegetables and some meat dishes.
The desserts, the area of any buffet that I love the most, was not the shining star it usually is for me. Anyone who knows me, knows how much I love baked goods of any kind. In fact, one of my greatest pleasures in life is eating said baked goods, pastries, cakes and such.
There was not a single thing here that I could eat more than one bite of. The textures were all off, there was nary a flavour besides sweetness. On a positive note, it saved me calories that’s for sure.
Return Trip to Madaba
Getting an Uber back to Madaba proved to be a challenge. I had a total of five vehicles show up and a taxi driver stopped to be a translator. The first four Uber drivers wanted me to cancel the ride on the App. Then pay them MORE than the price of Uber, in cash, to take me back to the city. Each one wanted 20DR.
The fifth Uber driver, bless his heart, took me as requested in the App, due east, across the mountains, and straight to Madaba. The exact route the initial driver should have taken this morning. Cost was 11DR or $22 CAD and took less than 20 minutes.
What a day! Swimming in the Dead Sea is everything I had hoped it would be. From playing in mud to lazing on the surface of some of the saltiest water on earth. Its an experience that is thoroughly enjoyable. If I were to do it again, I would pay a little extra for a more luxurious hotel day pass. The Grand East was the 2nd cheapest option I could find.
