My kind host, the wife, has taken me to see some sights close to the village. These are two relatively small towns, both with historical value and significance. But more than that, they are interesting and unique to this side of the island. Come with me and visit fascinating Lefke & Gemikonagi in North Cyprus.
Lefke
Starting with the larger of the two, there is a new section that contains an international university, and the old town. It is the historical part that we visit and spend the majority of our time in. What grabs my attention as soon as we park the vehicle, are the amazing old houses.
Historical Houses
With a dilapidated sign in the front yard that reads “Lefke Historical House” that is all the information I have at that point. Since then, I have learned that these were constructed between 1900 and 1930.
They and many more down this street are made of mud bricks, stacked on top of each other, creating walls that are perhaps 1.5 feet wide. Over this is a thick plaster layer that would have been painted both inside the home and out.
The old wooden windows and doors, iron work and balconies are intact. These homes were grand, two floors and owned by wealthy folks. Peeking inside the open and broken windows, I see rooms that still contain the chandeliers, antique furniture and carpets and architectural details. The ceilings are wooden beams overlayed with layers of palm and reeds, truly incredible to see them so fully intact.
I run my fingers gently over the earthenware bricks and they crumble to dust. I can see they are a combination of reeds and other plant fibres, stones and even nut shells.
Colonial Buildings
At the core, the town has several unique and beautiful colonial buildings from the time that Cyprus was a British colony. These today are the post office and town hall and others sit vacant but in really good condition. There is a robust monument to King George right on the sidewalk too.
Ottoman Influence
Walking around the quaint streets, the Ottoman influence is apparent. There are centuries old mosques and a feeling of history here. Groups of males sit outside just about every coffee shop, playing backgammon and dominoes while sipping on whisky and strong black coffee.
The call to prayer begins and I am transported to another time and place, wandering around these dry and dusty streets. Every so often, there is a more modern and trendier place, like this one that has a courtyard covered in a rainbow of umbrellas. But most of the atmosphere is laid back, quiet and peaceful.
Gemikonagi
My host and I visit this town for several reasons. First it is the place where the miners lived and worked. Copper has been mined here for centuries, but more recently in the early 1900’s by an American company.
The rows of tiny houses that the miners used for accommodation, are still here and being lived in today. Down at the coastline I see the mining cars and trains that transported the copper from the mines themselves out onto jetties and into waiting ships. This jetty is 400 metres long, but another in the distance is a whopping 1400 metres in length.
Memorial
Driving now along the coast, just a short way down, are old military bunkers and then a huge memorial. We park and hop out so I can see what is here.
The main display is an F-100 Super Sabre fighter jet with a statue of the pilot, Cengiz Topel, standing in front. He was shot down in the early years of the invasion, managing to eject himself but was captured by the Greek forces. I won’t elaborate on what happened to him, suffice it to say he perished. This memorial is where his plane crashed. In two large glass display cases are pieces of his actual aircraft.
On the other side, across the square are a number of information boards, telling the history of this side of the island from the Turkish perspective. Very interesting indeed.
Groceries
We have chores to do and this is what we tackle now. But the funnest kind, grocery shopping. Into several shops we go, looking at all of the local products that I find fascinating. Once large store called Kiler is where we purchase the bulk of our supplies. These include hummus and tahin and of course a box full of delicious baklava. These we will all share back at the house.
What I have found very interesting in every store on this side, is the amount and availability of alcohol. I was under the assumption that this would be rather difficult to procure, but instead, it is apparent that the product is enjoyed thoroughly and regularly here.
Returning to Yesilirmak
On the ride back to our remote little village, the scenery is absolutely beautiful. Think agricultural plots in the valleys with mountains in the distance. At one point we stop the car and I hop out to take a photo of Yesilirmak in the distance.
What a charming and picturesque place this is. Nestled into the uppermost western corner of Turkish Cyprus and right at the border. Having a host that is eager to show me the sights is such a blessing. These two towns, Lefke and Gemikonagi have provided such an insight into not only the history of the region but also the beauty.
