On my first full day in Kyoto, and the only one that was forecast to be sunny, I decided exploring the famous Fushimi Inari-taisha Shrine would be a good plan. I had done very little research, but knew that the earlier I arrived, the less crowds I would encounter.
Social Media
I have seen pictures, reels and videos of this shrine, more times than I can count. Most look incredibly beautiful, mystical, and all things aesthetically Japanese. I had heard the crowds could be bad, but almost every photograph one sees, is of an individual standing alone amongst these hundreds of gates. So how bad could it really be?
Really Bad!
I left my flat at 7:45am and arrived at the shrine at 8:20. That was faaaaaar too late. In retrospect, I should have been aiming to arrive at the shrine by 5:30am. When I left the train station, I had worried that I would need a map or get lost trying to locate the shrine. Not so, just follow the stream of other tourists, also leaving the train station, and they will be your guide.
By the time I reached the entrance gates I was immersed in a teeming stream of people. I couldn’t even see the iconic torii gates at this point. Once I entered the gates, climbing my way up the mountain, it was stop and go and shuffling at a snail’s pace, for most of the way up (almost two hours!). Shoulder bashing, for much of that duration.
Torii Gates
In my romantic mind, and having done little to no research, my brain told me these were mystical gates, with beautiful Buddhist writing on them. And perhaps by walking under them, I would be blessed and kept safe. What tricks the mind plays. 🤣
The orange torii gates are in fact, each donated by a company, and act both as an advertisement for said company, and a way to bring good fortune to their business. The writing you see, the beautiful black Japanese script, is the advertising for the business. 😣🫣
At this point in time there is one long stretch of over 800 gates, and another 200 scattered here and there. They are indeed quite wonderful to walk beneath, especially if you can eke out a few seconds in which there are no other people around you.
The Shrines
As you ascend up the mountain, you will encounter small shrines along the way. These consist of a covered altar area, with granite columns, figures and such around them. Each is beautiful in its own right.
Here you may also find small stores, selling candles, objects to write wishes on and light snacks and drinks. There are also vending machines that increase in price, the closer you get to the summit.
The View
About ¾ the way to the top, you will find the best views possible. Here is a plateau and intersection of paths, with toilet facilities, and areas to take photographs.
One can see sweeping views of Kyoto city and the mountains beyond, truly beautiful on a clear day. There is no view from the summit, so this is a place where many turn around and head back down.
The Summit
When you have finally crested the highest point of the torii gates trail, you will find a somewhat larger shrine, but very similar to all those you have passed on the way up. Like I mentioned above, there is no view, no facilities.
I spent quite a few minutes here, enjoying the lack of people around, and the beautiful objects I was seeing located deep within the shrine.
The Descent
There is a specific direction around the looping summit path that is recommended. To return to the base, I simply followed any signage I could see for ‘main temple’, which is at the bottom.
There were a few breakthrough spaces to catch a breath and really enjoy the torii gates in solitude, just after the summit and on the descent. Most people will simply have turned around by now, not making it to the top.
These precious moments of peace, I first spent trying desperately to get that ‘insta-worthy’ shot. Then I put my things away and simply twirled around, peeking in and out of the gates, looking at the forest through the trees and enjoying the sounds of birds and the breeze.
Soon enough you are in the throngs of people again, barely able to see in front of you. I spent the rest of the time, head down, concentrating on getting the heck out of this trail system as fast as I could. Which of course was at the same snail pace as coming up.
At The Bottom
There is so much to see at the base of the hike and mountain. Besides the main shrine to walk around and see from the exterior, are so many other structures and objects.
Perhaps my favourite thing of the whole day was seeing these rows of colourful paper cranes, notes left in hopes that wishes came true and objects placed for luck.
Overall Impressions
It was overwhelming in the worst way possible for me. I was on site for probably five hours total, and was completely and utterly mentally spent by the time I left. I really detest crowds, which is why I have to find solitude when I decide to go into a space that I know is going to be challenging.
Well, this was challenging beyond all expectations. I think because you are in such an enclosed space for so long, it felt so claustrophobic and gross. If I was to go again, I would go as early as absolutely possible. What I would really like, is to hike it at night, for it is open 24 hours a day.
But being a solo traveller, I just don’t feel safe getting myself to the site and back in the dark, alone, on the streets of a foreign country.
That’s so interesting about the gates and company advertising.
Hi Alexander, yes, very much so. Have a beautiful day.