I visited Montenegro last year, in September, and at that time I was staying in the city of Tivat. My trip was only twelve days long, but it gave me a taste of the country. I’ve decided to come for another visit. Today I went exploring quaint & beautiful Old Town Budva, an ancient walled stone city.
Brief History
One of the oldest towns on the Adriatic coast, Budva has seen a myriad of conquerors over the centuries. The initial settlement was founded by the Illyrians in the 6th century BC. In true Roman fashion, the little coastal town was taken over in the 2nd century BC and ruled until the year 395.
From there Budva fell into Byzantine hands and has changed rulers more times than I can recount here. What we see today, was created during the Middle Ages. A medieval stone town, with complete fortification on all sides. The only other city to be surrounded completely by walls on the Montenegrin coast is Kotor.
Gates
There are quite a few surprisingly, and one is extra special, called Pylons, it dates back to the 6th century BC. Some of the gates are quite small, in fact I have to duck to not hit my head, and I’m short.
Others are larger, grander, and have a religious icon, placed above the arch on the inside of the walls. The doors are massive and thick, being made with heavy iron and wood.
Roman Ruins
The most prominent and noticeable is the antique necropolis located just outside of Old Town, and inside the walls are the Roman altar and thermae. These three pieces of ruin are so understated, one might not even notice them when walking around.
Early Christian Basilica
Another extraordinary and ancient place is the ruins of the 5th century Christian Basilica. It is located right beside the Citadel and many treasures have been uncovered from this site. One can walk around quite freely, there are no signs or ropes to keep you away from exploring here.
Alleys
My favourite part of any old town, is letting myself wander, and get lost in the labyrinth of small streets and alleys. Old Town Budva is a perfect place for this. Arrive early in the morning, before the hoards of tourists descend. All of the shops and most restaurants are closed, but you will have complete freedom to explore and absorb all of the charm.
The tall stone buildings mean there will be no sunlight reaching these places until high noon, but this only increases the feelings of mystery and wonder. You might let your mind take you back, to a time when the streets would have been filled with wooden carts laden with grapes and olives, street vendors selling their wares and farm animals roaming these little roads.
Citadel
Quite a beautiful structure from the exterior with its grand entrance and staircase. I chose not to pay the €5 entrance fee, as I had read that the only things to see inside are a small library, some model ships and views from the top of a wall. Do walk the length of the building and along the wall to the left near the sea. Here the views of the marina and beach are lovely. There are benches under the large shade trees to have a rest if you wish too.
Churches
Among other interesting things to see, are the churches. There are about five that are most notable. The newest is the Church of the Holy Trinity built in 1804. A beautiful structure made from warm limestone that lights up in the early morning glow.
The Church of Saint John is one that almost every visitor will notice right away. It was constructed in the 15th century and later, in 1867, a bell tower was built. It is this enchanting belfry that one can see from anywhere in the city and creates an utterly beautiful view next to the sea.
My favourite, the Church of Santa Maria in Punta, dates back to the 9th century. Built in a Romanesque style, the building is tiny and has the loveliest windows. The bell tower is empty now and the space is frequently used as a community gathering place for performances and exhibitions.
I love these historical old towns. The history, craftsmanship, architecture and feelings I have when I wander around are so peaceful. Budva reminds me much of Trogir in Croatia. If I was walking through each and didn’t know where I was, I really would not be able to tell the difference. By far, Old Town Budva is my best and most favourite recommendation for visitors to the city.
