One of my travel traditions is to explore at least one cemetery in each destination I visit. I can tell you with certainly, this is an easy feat here. There are quite literally, cemeteries everywhere. One of the most special I have ever seen however, is here too. Exploring a unique Jewish cemetery in Sarajevo left me in awe.
Getting There
Located across the river from the Aria Mall, this would be about a 30-minute walk from Old Town. Well worth the effort, as this the second largest Jewish cemetery in Europe, second only to the one in Prague.
Tombstones
Earliest records of this cemetery are from 1630. Beside this site, was a medieval necropolis, or burial ground containing stecak tombstones. These ancient stones are most commonly found in Bosnia & Herzegovina, with over 60,000 being known across the country. They date from the 12th to 16th centuries, predating the city and are incredibly unique.
The tombstones that are here, are extremely unusual. It is believed that the Sephardic Jews who were forced to flee from Spain and Portugal in 1492, were influenced by the old stecak, and this is why the tombs here are so unique.
Rounded at the top and elongated with a somewhat narrow rear, these tombstones are like nothing else I have ever seen. All have inscriptions to some degree on the ‘face’, however a few closer to the front of the cemetery have additional inscriptions in Spanish, on the sides.
What I believe to be the oldest are truly mystical. These contain very little script if any, and instead have forms on the stone. Most are simply raised half moons, others more doughnut shaped with a sunken middle. And still others that are strangely human like with a head and elongated body. The ones with script are fascinating as well, for the fronts are very unusual and different from the rest.
Headstones
Down near the temple, closer to the main gate, are the more traditional graves. The headstones on these are what one would imagine in a typical cemetery. The last known burial here was in 1966 and the youngest grave I saw this day was dated 1955.
Many of the newer stones, have all of the pieces removed and laid flat on top of the grave. I know this site contained up to 70 land mines that were only just removed in 1996. Perhaps the graves were laid flat at that time, during that process.
This Old Jewish cemetery was on the front line during the Siege of Sarajevo and used by the Bosnian Serbs as a strong hold. There is evidence of shell fire on multiple tombstones and monuments.
Feelings
Walking through here is odd. There are over 3,800 tombstones on this site. Most are very old which is what I prefer to see, and find the most interesting. The area is quite overgrown in many parts, and the graves inaccessible.
Besides being chased from one area by a large dog, I felt in awe here. The tombstones are so utterly unique, I couldn’t help but stop and study them, wondering with such curiosity how they transpired to have this unique shape and size, for some are truly massive. They almost look like they are emerging from the earth, in an effort to be reborn or seen.
I did have the friendliest cat follow me for a while. He was such a charmer and made my time joyful. It was a cloudy day, and I was the sole visitor.
I would definitely encourage visitors to Sarajevo to come and see this most unique cemetery. It is a peaceful place (except for the dog), a large site and offers beautiful views overlooking the city from the top. On the side of Mount Trebevic, this cemetery will be one that I remember forever.
