There are numerous reasons to make Malta a destination, but this time of year, its really special. Not only are there fewer tourists and the weather sunny, but the holiday is celebrated here like no where else I have been. Easter in Malta, the best time to visit this amazing country.
Our Lady of Sorrows Processions
If you happen to be here for a couple of weeks before Easter day, don’t miss Our Lady of Sorrows Procession. I was witness to this when I visited Malta two years ago and it was incredible to watch. I have a blog post completely dedicated to just this, I’ll link that here. If you are visiting closer to the Easter weekend, the following is what you can expect to experience.
Good Friday Procession
Malta is a small country, consisting of five islands, but really only three are known. Those are Malta, Gozo & Comino. On these islands are various small cities and towns. Each one has their own Good Friday Processions and they all differ just a little.
This year I chose to attend the one in Cospicua that began and ended at the Collegiate Church of the Immaculate Conception. At 5:30pm, the knights, led by the scout’s band, left the hall and marched up the road to the church. A single knight walked the main staircase to the massive front doors and knocked loudly. He was given entrance and the rest followed him inside.
All spectators remained outside, lining the streets and surrounding the front of the church. Shortly after, the procession began.
The Procession
Good Friday is the sombre commemoration of the crucifixion and death of Jesus. Tonight, 13 massive statues that have been cleaned, dressed and adorned with flowers and olive trees, will be carried through the narrow streets of this ancient town.
Walking in between these statues, are locals dressed as roman soldiers and other figures from the bible. All of these costumes, hundreds of them, are owned by this single church.
As I watch each of these massive heavy statues leave the church doors, I wonder how on earth they will reach the street below. But they do. The bearers who must all be of the same height, carefully and artfully manage to bring these pieces down the stone steps and onto the road.
Now they pass by me, swaying in the dusk air. I hear the band, a singer and prayers. Onlookers are taking photo’s and in as much awe as myself.
Duration
Three hours later, the last figure has left the church, yes this has been going on for three hours. I slowly make my way back to my apartment. What do I meet up with on the street above mine? The procession again, but now in the dark, slowly but surely returning to the church.
These souls must be utterly exhausted, dehydrated and hungry but they carry on through the old and narrow streets.
Saturday
Cleaning and reorganizing! I have popped into the church; it is void of the plethora of items that were here just yesterday. Now its time to reorganize all of the items from the Good Friday procession, pull down the black drapes covering the walls of the church and get it ready for the Easter Sunday procession and mass. What a huge undertaking.
Easter Sunday
Today is a joyous celebration! Where Friday was sombre, today the mood is completely different. I walk towards the church with fellow Maltese all dressed in their Sunday best. At 9:15 the big church doors open and we have the beginning of the Easter processions!
I have no idea what to expect today, and am thrilled with everything I see. Firstly, the flag bearers emerge with the priests following shortly behind. Next is the band and much of the crowd departs behind the band at this point.
I remain and watch as a single solitary statue emerged from the church doors. This time, a Christ that has risen. The remainder of the crowd now follows this statue and we head up through town, taking a different route than Friday.
Walking
The entire city is out now, packed into these narrow and ancient stone streets. We follow the procession while people throw confetti, streamers and balloons from high above in their balcony windows.
The entire sight is pure magic. I take a detour so I can get ahead of the crowd and watch them enter the square. Here they come and this time they are running with the statue! The crowd goes wild with clapping and hooting.
This is where the priests bless the children’s candy that they have received this morning. Each one is carrying his or her single treat or toy for just this purpose. The priest hands out a fig to each child too.
Second Square
Oh we are not finished yet! Now the whole pack of thousands departs and heads to a larger square just outside of this city near the next one. That square is already packed with people waiting the arrival of our statue. I head into the mix, hoping to find a safe space to get some photos. I see the beer gardens are open and by this time I’m terribly parched. So, I do like the Maltese do and purchase myself an iced cold beer at 10:30am on Easter Sunday!
There are day time fireworks beginning overhead, the sky full of white puffs of smoke. Now a path is being cleared behind the marching band who has been playing non stop this entire time. And here come the runners again with the statue held up high! Wow, what a sight, right into and through the crowd, everyone going wild with cheer.
Celebrations
It’s a glorious day. The procession has now ended. The streets are all closed to vehicular traffic. Thousands of people are milling around. There are food trucks, toy vendors, and places to buy traditional Easter snacks and of course the never-ending beer!
To be immersed with the locals on such a significant holiday is the most incredible feeling. With 98% of the country being Roman Catholic, you know how important this must be for them. These processions have been happening for hundreds of years in these communities. This history is unflappable, incredibly moving and being witness to something this special, the epitome of travel for me.
