An advantage of staying in Lucca is the proximity to other places near the coast in Tuscany. One such holds an iconic tourist attraction that I never believed I would visit in my lifetime. I have seen photos of it in the encyclopedias I studied as a child and now I get to witness the sight before my eyes. Let’s take a day trip to the Tower of Pisa & Square of Miracles.
Getting There
All it takes is one single train ride on Trenitalia regional line, at a cost of €3.90. The ride takes just under forty minutes. There are two train stops in Pisa, the closest one to the Leaning Tower is called Pisa San Rossore. Hop off here for a 12-minute walk to the site. If you get off at Pisa Centrale, the walk will take 25 minutes and wanders through the centre of the city.
Square of Miracles
Or more formally known as Piazza dei Miracoli, is the name given to the almost 9-hectare complex. Approaching from the train station, it is through one of several medieval gates that visitors will pass.
Inside these old walls are four main features nestled in a large field of bright green grass. These include the Pisa Cathedral, Baptistery, Leaning Tower of Pisa and the Campo Santo or cemetery. The lawns were once filled with buildings too, mainly houses and vegetable gardens for the gravedigger, customs house and gardener. These were demolished in the early 19th century in an attempt to return the space to its original state.
Pisa Cathedral
The first structure to arise on this unique site situated outside of the city itself, was the cathedral. Built on top of an older church, construction began in 1064. A beautiful example of religious architecture, the façade is completely covered in a mosaic of white stone and grey and coloured marble.
Those massive bronze doors were added after the fire 1595 that destroyed much of the interior of the church. Pisa Cathedral is truly a stunning church and I encourage visitors to purchase a ticket and go inside. My budget is not hefty enough to afford the price; however, I think this is one church that is truly worth the cost.
Baptistery
The largest baptistery in Italy is this one at Pisa. Construction began in the middle of the 12th century on this beautiful round Romanesque building. Initially the dome at the top had a hole, just like the Pantheon in Rome. When it rains, water fills the baptismal font in the Pantheon, unlike in Pisa where there are no drains.
Again, this is a structure that visitors should purchase a ticket for. I have been told that while the interior is quite plain, there is an audible acoustic miracle that happens when music is played or someone sings.
Campo Santo
At the northern edge of the square is the Campo Santo. This long and incredibly beautiful Gothic cloister is a monumental cemetery built upon an earlier burial ground. Originally it was filled with exquisite frescoes, but the large fire wiped them out when it melted the lead ceiling that then dripped down the walls. This site will be included in a ticket you purchase for the others.
Leaning Tower of Pisa
And now we come to the quintessential attraction, one that has brought millions of people from around the globe for centuries. The Leaning Tower of Pisa. Located behind the cathedral, it was the last of the buildings to be constructed. The bell tower began life in 1173 and took 177 years to complete. By the third tier, the lean had already started as the ground is made of silt and the foundation was not substantial enough.
A decision was made to halt work for a century, to allow the ground to stabilize. When work began again, the remaining tiers were built with one side taller than the other. Finally in 1372 the bells were added and the tower complete. At that time the lean was 1 degree or 2.5 feet from vertical.
By 1990 the lean was a whopping 5.5 degrees! A monumental project in 2010 reduced the lean by 1 degree and that is where it sits today.
Pisa Tower
The tower measures 56 meters tall and weights 14.453 tonnes. It is simply magnificent to see in person. I was worried it would feel a little corny, as that is what I have heard it described as, but its anything but.
Walking on the underside of the lean, it feels quite scary! That lean is so much more pronounced when viewed in real life. I couldn’t take my eyes off the tower, its one of the most amazing things I have ever had the privilege to see in my life.
Visitors to the Square of Miracles, don’t be alarmed if you are a budget traveller such as myself and cannot afford a ticket to enter the individual sites. To enter the square and walk around and see everything, is completely free. To marvel at the exquisite architecture and be in the presence of such an iconic place is epic. You will find yourself laughing along with others trying to take those hilarious photos of themselves holding up the tower. What a great day!
