One might think by now, that I would be getting tired or bored with markets. Not so my dear readers, if anything the fascination grows. Each time I encounter an item I have not seen before, it feeds my curiosity. I am in luck here in this capital city. Bit Pazar is the best market in Skopje and I’ll show you why.
Getting There
When I read ‘Bit Pazar’ my brain wants to switch it around to Pit Bazar, but it is indeed correct as ‘Bit’. Located right beside the Old Bazaar, one can enter at several places. The main entrance, if it has one, would be at the large arch which demarcates the boundary of the two entities.
In reality, walk anywhere around this massive covered market, and enter through a narrow dark passage and into the vast space. Bit Pazar is the largest and oldest market in Skopje having been a trading hub since the 14th century when the Ottomans occupied the area.
The Exterior
The sidewalks that surround this market are worth a walk. Vendors have set up their wares on every spare piece of pavement and shop fronts spill their merchandise out too. Nearest the stone arch, find a community fountain used regularly, for washing hands, face, drinking from and swishing/spitting into. Around the fountain are several vendors selling hand made items such as these natural wool products.
This fine gent modeled an item for me, that upon initial inspection I thought was a wool scarf. As soon as I touched it, I knew I was wrong for the wool is woven so tightly it hardly has any movement. He wrapped it around his torso and I’m still not sure what its purpose is.
Another interesting item for sale here is the raw tobacco. These gents are peddling their bags full of shredded leaves, farmed right outside the city. It’s interesting to watch them interact with the buyers, each one testing the quality, sniffing, touching and such.
The Interior
Let’s head inside now. Immediately I am completely gobsmacked at the sheer size of the place, very deceiving from outside. I had no idea Bit Pazar was this large. It almost feels like one has walked into a warehouse. Around the perimeter are what look like small shop-like spaces, filled with all sorts of goods, both food and other.
The market is divided into two main areas, one is all things food related and behind that, everything else. Let’s start with the food, always my favorite part.
Fresh Food
Vendors in the centre of the space are selling fresh food, or I should say non-packaged items. Changing with the seasons, this area is going to be the most different depending on when you are visiting. Now it is filled with plums, and I can tell that the grapes are just making their entry in a big way. The ever-present peppers, cucumbers and tomatoes of the Balkan salads are always nice to see.
Spices and dried herbs adding pops of bright colour to the scene everywhere I turn. Some vendors have these for sale in bulk and others have created small bags for easy purchase.
Olives and cheese! I can smell both of these from a few tables away with their pungent odors wafting through the air. And piles upon piles of cay, loose Turkish tea.
Nuts, honey and nuts soaking in honey, something I have not seen before. Eggs of all sizes, bottles of fresh yogurt and even meat, both raw and cured. It is all here for the shoppers, all of which are locals. I have yet to see another tourist inside the Bit Pazar.
Other Goods
Before we leave this area there is one other thing I should mention. Live animals. Yes, there is a section here, it is the smelliest, and all are in cages. On this day I spotted large fluffy rabbits and song birds.
Once you have had your fill of all thing’s food, head behind and into the next section. Here find the household goods, electronics, clothing, and isle upon isle of shoes. Everything under the sun is available in the Bit Pazar. All vendors are males, predominantly Albanian. Even though they are a minority in Skopje, in this part of the city, they form the majority by far, flying their flag with pride.
A visit to Bit Pazar should be on every one’s list who comes to this fascinating capital city. I can guarantee you will see at least something you have not before. The smells, sights, sounds and cultural experience will enrich your day and memories. Some vendors are particularly friendly and will offer smiles and bites of tasty morsels. Others will merely stare, but this is part and parcel of the experience. Enjoy every market with gusto, they are an authentic experience into the local way of life.
