Of the over 300 Buddhist temples in the city, this one is special for several reasons. Not only does it contain what was the largest building in the Lanna Kingdom, but houses the city pillar as well. Beautiful Wat Chedi Luang a Chiang Mai temple that is at the top of my list for must see places to visit.
Brief History
Built in the 14th century, the purpose for Wat Chedi Luang was to hold the ashes of the king’s father. However, ten years later when the king passed, the temple was still under construction and wouldn’t be finished for almost a century.
When the main chedi was complete, it was the tallest building in all the Lanna Kingdom at a towering 82 meters high. Sadly in 1545, a massive earthquake struck the area and the upper 30 meters collapsed.
In 1468 the famous Emerald Buddha was placed in the eastern facing niche at the top. After the quake, in 1551, that precious and most revered statue was moved to a temple in Laos.
The Chedi
Chedi is the bell-shaped structure that is in all Thai Buddhist temples. These old ones were made of brick and many are then covered with gold. Here at Wat Chedi Luang we see what is left of the largest chedi in Chiang Mai. It has four niches at the top, each one holds a different Buddha statue.
Years ago, these would have been accessible to the monks by a staircase, today it is off limits to climb the chedi. One reason this chedi is so unique are the enormous elephants that at one time surrounded the entire structure. There are only a few remaining of the original 28, in one corner, and they are charming to see.
Lak Mueang
This is the shrine that holds the city pillar and the city spirit deity. A very special place, females are strictly forbidden to enter. It is believed the first city pillar was installed in Bangkok by the king in 1782.
The pillars inside the shrine are made of Chaiyapreuk (acacia) wood which means ‘tree of victory’. Here at Wat Chedi Luang, three of these were planted at the time the shrine was installed and are now towering over the site.
Wihans
Wihan is the name of the temple buildings that hold the precious golden Buddha statues and where devotees come to pray. The largest wihan at Wat Chedi Luang is to the east of the chedi. Surrounding it are bowls of beautiful pink water lilies. Walking around, with the monks chanting crackling through the speakers, one could quite easily fall into a trance.
There are numerous wihans on site here, one quite different from the next. Each holds its own Buddha statue, some dating back as far as the 15th century. The large reclining Buddha is especially beautiful and there is a sign in front, saying that people getting married must not take a photo in front of this statue.
It doesn’t explain why, but this type of belief and superstition is very common in Chiang Mai. Another wihan that I thoroughly enjoy is this raw wooden one. The carved details on the gables and bells dangling all along the eaves are enchanting.
Donation Station
Visitors will see this at all Thai temples, but here the station is quite large. Find a number of things to pay a small fee for and use in prayer around the temple grounds.Perhaps a small piece of gold leave to rub onto a Buddha statue to placate the spirits or ask for a favour? Or, write a message on the large golden scroll for good luck and prosperity.
Here you can purchase candles and incense too. These are placed around the grounds at various holy places as part of prayer.
Wat Chedi Luang is a large complex, filled with wonderful sights to see and also is a residence for local monks. From an enclosure full of birds, chickens and dogs, to flowering trees I have never seen in my life before. I could spend hours here, just at this one temple, and still feel like there was more to see. Visitors to Chiang Mai, this temple is not to be missed as one of the most significant within the old city walls.
