Since I have been to Da Nang before, I am taking this opportunity to explore further afield. After some research, I have settled on a few day trips, still within city limits though. The first is discovering beautiful Tuy Loan rice paper making village in Vietnam.
Getting There
Because its only 14 kilometres from downtown, I have decided to take a Grab ride. The route is easy and once past the city proper, only a few short minutes more through lush countryside. The cost of the ride is 218,000 dong or roughly $11 CAD and takes about 30 minutes.
Tuy Loan Market
Try as I might, I could not find any specific information on where to actually see the rice paper being made. My thought is to be dropped off at the village market, and work my way out from there. This market is fairly standard to what I have seen in the city. The fresh vegetables and fruit taking up about half the space, with meat and seafood occupying the other half.
What is unique here though are the live animals! All kept in cages, I see several varieties of ducks including hatchlings and chickens. While it is terribly sad to see the birds in cages, I hope that when they are purchased this day, they are taken home to roam about in little gardens.
I see no rice paper here, darn. I was hoping to use that vendor to ask about where I might find the makers.
The Village
I have a wander around, trying to get my bearings. There is a central core that is actually much livelier and more developed that I had imagined. This is not the humble little country village that lives in my mind. Houses are made of concrete cinder blocks or red bricks and generally seem to be two stories. These older ones with the design up at the gable peak are lovely to spot. I enjoy the colours too.
I decide I am unlikely to see the rice making process in this bustling area, so decide to take to some of the smaller and quieter streets, away from the central area.
Cemetery
I am thrilled when I stumble upon a cemetery quite by accident while taking smaller and smaller alleys. This is a typical Buddhist cemetery where the deceased have been cremated and these round cylinders are the memorial gravestone if you will.
This is very reminiscent of a cemetery I visited last year in Hue Vietnam. Extremely peaceful, there is no one around. In Vietnam, it is common for the burial to be in a relations yard, and I do begin to see evidence of this as well.
New Tuy Loan Temple
There are two temples that cross my path on my explorations. This new one appears to be just on the verge of opening. I am unable to access the grounds except for the garden area that is right at the river.
Everything is grand, brightly painted and fresh. I walk down the steps to the rivers edge and here I find loads of fish and eels swimming about in the murky water.
Old Tuy Loan Temple
A little ways on, and I come across the old temple. This one is open and I can explore these deserted grounds. Here I find the typical mosaic pottery frescoes of dragons and other animals. I love the details of these and am saddened to see them so worn.
One observation since I have arrived regarding the temples in Vietnam, they appear to simply build a new one almost beside the pre-existing one. Instead of fixing and repairing the old temple, simply replace it with a new one. The old one is not torn down, but closed off and left to weather and disintegrate. Interesting.
The yard surrounding this old temple is being used as a garden space. The beautiful patina on the old yellow paint, so charming in the bright sunshine. There are a few canoes out back, not a soul in sight.
As I peek through the doors and into the sacred spaces, I can see the beautiful decorations inside. These are colourful I would love to have a closer look at the handiwork and trinkets that adorn the altars.
River
Well, I have as of yet had no luck finding the actual thing I came searching for. I have stopped to ask several people. They have motioned with their hands that I should either keep walking this way or that. Alas I am finding myself in need of a rest and a cool drink.
Walking over to the river to admire the country views, I spot a café! Here I find outdoor seating, right down at the rivers edge. This is perfect. For 20,000 dong or $1 I enjoy a lovely iced coffee and a glass of tea that is customarily served with every coffee in Vietnam.
With the gentle breeze in my face, I relax, enjoy my surroundings and think about how to proceed with this mission. I have come up with a plan, I’ll keep exploring the smaller streets and little alleys and keep mustering the guts to ask around. Surely, someone will know where I can find the rice paper makers.
