One of my favourite areas in any city is the oldest part. Here I find the most character, charm and of course history. The beautiful Centro Storico in Salerno is such a place, with ancient cobblestone streets and medieval buildings galore.
Getting There
It is not difficult to find this area of the city. At the northern end, under the protection of Buongiorno Hill, lies an area of narrow streets and alley’s called Centro Storico. Directly in front at the seaside, is the only true beach in the city, Spiaggia Santa Teresa and the newly constructed Piazza della Liberta.
Wander up any street from this beach or piazza and you will find yourself fully immersed in Salerno’s past.
Brief History
First settled by the Etruscan’s in the 6th century BC, it was later taken over by the Romans in the 2nd century AD. Most of what is visible today in Centro Storico, was built in medieval times on top of the ancient Roman city. There are of course still parts of the old Roman city visible throughout the area.
Centro Storico
I have wandered the streets a few times now, letting myself get lost in the tiny alley’s, nooks and crannies. Everywhere I look, I see utterly charming and quaint evidence of the past.
What astounds me are the number of absolutely massive doors! These remain solid and intact, made of wood, many with carved marble surrounds. They are the entrances to ancient palaces that once filled the neighbourhood and they are gorgeous.
The medieval buildings are what you will mostly see today, walking through this beautiful rich area. Take in the intricate facades and soft pastel shades of colour that remain on these structures.
Dotted throughout the area are churches and a large cathedral at the centre.
Today
Café’s, storefronts and shopping fill the area, just as they did centuries past. Don’t let your guard down though. Even though the streets are filled with pedestrians, technically these are open to vehicular traffic. When I say it’s a tight fit, it is indeed that. Today I had to jump into a doorway, to escape being swiped by a little vehicle charging through a street. Keeps me on my toes! 😂
Most of the buildings are around three or four stories high. With the streets being so narrow, sunlight only reaches down to the ground for a brief part of each day in the summer.
Exploring this area, the vibe is soft and pleasant. You see locals in their true habitat, purchasing their goods at the patisserie, butcher or fish monger. Benches and cafe’s are full of people enjoying life outside of their flats.
I have been lucky to be renting an Airbnb in Centro Storico. Sitting on my tiny balcony, I can listen to the daily noises around me. From silverware clanking as people enjoy their lunch, to children playing on their outdoor terraces, this area fills me with quiet peace.
