My plan for exploring this area was to spend quite a bit of time on the beaches. Having heard the name ‘Costa del Sol’ many times over the years, I had envisioned this place as extraordinary. What I found was entirely the opposite. Here is a brief overview of the beaches of the Costa del Sol at Torremolinos.
The Coastline
Along this city, there is a 6.5 kilometre stretch of coastline with a paved promenade of the same length. This encompasses many beaches and a multitude of clubs, resorts and hotels.
The space is divided up into an east side, mid point and west side. The east and west are quite different from each other. One is dated and a little run down, the other seems to be more popular and maintained better by the municipality.
I’ll begin with the east side and work west towards the marina. I will preface this post by saying that the actual sand and water quality is the same no matter where you are. The sand is dark gray and coarse, too rough for my bare feet.
Playa de los Alamos
Here find a RIU and an Occidental hotel. This beach has the fewest clubs, shops and otherwise commercial spaces. Located at the far eastern side of the city, there is a lot of construction and large empty parking lots close by.
A popular place for van lifers and those living from their RV’s, this is perhaps the most natural beach around. It looks like there has been beach clean up recently that took the form of tilling under, all of the debris and garbage from the recent flooding.
Playamar
Next beach in the walk west is Playamar. This one seems more popular and has a small patch of palm trees for shade. At sunrise these catch the light beautifully. The clubs are beginning to fill in here, so less natural space.
Playa del Lido
A large tourist staircase comes down here from the city which is up above. Lined with shops and restaurants, that is an attraction in itself and deposits tourists here.
This was my first encounter with the piles of debris and garbage, yet unattended by the clean up crew. The sand here is as coarse as it is anywhere else on this part of the coastline. Small pebbles and shells in patches.
Playa Bajondillo
Perhaps the busiest beach on this side and near the mid point of the coastline in front of Torremolinos. Full of clubs and restaurants up at the promenade. Above this beach, are a multitude of large apartment complexes, each with their own private staircase that descends right onto this beach.
Playa Rincon del Sol
Just past the hump of the El Morro rocky outcropping that is the mid point, is Rincon. This beach is the widest of any around. The sand is the same as is the water quality. I do see a group of fishing boats pulled up onto the sand here and lone fishermen standing at the waters edge throwing in a line.
Playa de la Carihuela
The most popular beach along the entire stretch is this one. Crammed with club after club, the promenade here is full of shops and cafés. This beach was in the worse shape of the entire coastline while I was visiting. Piles and piles of garbage and debris was washed ashore. For the duration of my visit, I never once was able to reach the waters edge.
As I’m leaving, I see tractors and dump trucks working around the clock, trying to clean up this area before the holiday tourists arrive. Even when clean, this is an average beach at best. Dark rough sand, pebbles and tacky tourist vibes abound.
Playa de Fuente Salud
We have now reached the far west side of the city, and are almost at the marina. The last beach is Fuente Salud. This is a small cove tucked in beside a long man-made pier. A Burger King sits almost on the sand at the top of the beach. Visitors can see a ferris wheel and the big resorts are here too.
I’m not sure how deeply my impressions are influenced by the piles of garbage at this time of year. I try to picture these 6.5 kilometres of sand without the debris and its still not a very attractive area. I should say, its not what I look for in a beautiful beach. The sand is dark, coarse and difficult to walk on even near the water. I’m really not sure what the attraction is, but there is no doubt that thousands of people flock to this area every year for their beach holiday. Perhaps it was coming here from Tarifa that influenced my views, for that piece of coastline is magic.
