As soon as I stumbled onto the knowledge that there were ancient ruins buried under a church, I was hooked. Having no idea what to expect, I entered the largest church in the city, paid my €10 to see all four sites and was met with awe. The archaeological complex of the Lucca Cathedral is well worth the cost and time.
What to See
There are four sites that encompass this complex and they include St. Martin’s Cathedral, the bell tower, the Museum and the archaeological site underneath the Church of Sts. Giovanni and Reparata. I will take you on an adventure through them all, to see exactly what is there and the amazing aspects of each.
St. Martin’s Cathedral
Often referred to simply as Lucca Cathedral, construction began in 1060 beside the original cathedral and continued through four centuries to create what we see today. There are several aspects about this church that are unique and intriguing.
The first is what is called the ‘Labyrinth’ and is located on a pillar outside near the tower. It is believed to have been created in the 12th or 13th century and might predate an earlier one, the earliest example of its kind. The rustic inscription beside it reads in part, “This is the labyrinth built by Dedalus of Crete; all who entered therein were lost….”
Another item of significant importance is located inside the cathedral, in a chapel shrine built in 1484. It is the Holy Face of Lucca, an eight-foot-tall statue of Jesus. Legend says that it was created by Nicodemus who assisted in placing Christ in the tomb after he was crucified. The same legend says the statue arrived into Lucca in 782AD.
Jesus has been radiocarbon dated, and the results state that he was created between 770-880AD. This corresponds with his arrival into Lucca in 782. Every year in September, a procession takes place here, that follows the route that the statue took through the city streets to reach the cathedral.
Bell Tower
Restored less than ten years ago, this magnificent bell tower is our next adventure. Climb the 217 steps to the top, taking in the views along the way. The air is crisp and cold and the atmosphere inside this old brick tower is surreal.
Reaching the bells is always a rush. There are seven in total and the oldest and also the smallest dates from 1277.
But its those views you are wanting to see. Stretching out before you in all directions, is the enchanting city of Lucca and the surroundings countryside and hills of Tuscany. Trying to spot familiar landmarks is always fun and getting a lay of the land is invaluable. What breathtaking sights these are!
The Museum
A somewhat small affair, it is located across the plaza from Lucca Cathedral. Inside find three floors of paintings, church ornaments and vestments, jewellery and manuscripts mostly from the Middle Ages.
What is unique are the gold garments that the Holy Hand of Lucca, that wooden statue of Jesus located in the cathedral, wears. Each year in September, he is dressed in these huge and elaborate gold garments that including a magnificent crown and even shoes.
Don’t miss going outside on the upper floor, to a walkway that will take you to a beautiful view of the large piazza. From here see the fountain and get your bearings. Right in front of us now is the next and final part of this adventure. The original cathedral!
Church of Sts Giovanni and Reparata
The brick church is the home of the archaeological site. For underneath this, the original Lucca cathedral, are five layers of history. After looking around at the medieval church at ground level, descend the stairs into another place and time.
What to see down here, in the depths, the bowels, is a twelve-century long history. Excavations have discovered the remains of a 1st century Roman domus, complete with mosaic floors.
Next, we follow the suspended metal pathway and see a 4th century pre-Christian baptistry, 9th century crypt complete with slate covered tombs and the 12th century baptistry and church. That large baptismal square was used for full submersion and takes centre stage under the current dome of the current church.
Down here we even find a series of three kilns that were used to create the bricks to build the Lucca Cathedral. The bronze was melted here too, that was used to create some of those old bells in the tower.
For €10 and a couple of hours, this archaeological complex is a phenomenal place to see and learn about the history of beautiful Lucca. Climbing the tower for the views, delving into two-thousand-year-old mosaic floors and marble columns and everything in-between with leave you feeling overwhelmed but in the best of ways.
