If there is one thing I love to discover during my travels, its historical sites. Here in the small country of Montenegro, there is a significant find right near the capital. Exploring the amazing ancient Roman town of Doclea Podgorica is a perfect way to spend the day.
Brief History
Built on an earlier Illyrian site, Doclea was a prosperous town of 8,000-10,000 inhabitants between the 1st and 4th centuries AD. Located at the confluence of three rivers, the town exhibits all of the usual Roman attributes. A forum, several basilicas, baths, necropolis, temples, ramparts and towers.
In the 5th century Doclea was overtaken by the Goths and in 518 suffered a catastrophic earthquake. During Byzantine rule, two more basilicas were constructed, but eventually by the 9th century, the town of Doclea is abandoned forever.
What to See
Doclea is the most significant archaeological site in the country of Montenegro. Located only 3km outside of the capital, access is easy to obtain by either vehicle or a pleasant walk. At the entrance find a map and a small hut. There is no one here, simply walk through the gate and explore at your leisure.
The map and signs at each place will guide you and supply basic information. On this side of the road, find the thermae baths, multiple temples, forum and basilica. Across the road, and through the ruins, another basilica and church exist.
Roman Forum
Being the centre of any ancient Roman town is the forum. At Doclea, the traditional layout can clearly be seen. On the right are the rows of shops, their square foundations clearly visible.
Up towards the rear are what remains of the columns that would have lined this central municipal space. Here find pieces of Roman text in amongst the tall dry grasses. The setting is surreal, vacant and lovely.
Basilica
The most intact part of these ruins is the main basilica that is beside the forum. Here see the rear walls including a section of the curved nave. One can easily imagine the layout of this building and have a sense of how large it must have stood.
The Temples
Not much remains of any of the temples. The Capitol Temple near the entrance has a pile of ruins at the centre. Massive blocks of stone are located here, larger than in any other area of the city.
The site looks to have recently been cleared of brush and grass so that it is accessible at all. Walking around the Capitol temple especially, be aware of your footing. There seem to be places where the ground is hollow beneath the grass.
Walls
I walk up to the edge of the chain fencing to get a glance across at the walls and towers. Only a small portion of Doclea is fenced off to keep it protected. The rest forms part of the local farmers fields. The walls that are visible are in these fields and inaccessible themselves.
Christian Church
One must cross the road where the small hut is at the entrance. Walk into this vast space scattered with ruins. Haphazard low-lying walls, and piles and piles of stone will surround you. This also belonged to the town of Doclea.
Walk towards the hillside and you will eventually reach another basilica and church. These are the newer structures that were built in the 5th & 6th centuries, during Byzantine rule. The layout of the church is clearly recognizable.
The day I visited, a goat herder came through, a wonderful sight to see. I crouched down under a tree and watched as these lovely creatures grazed their way though this ancient place.
Things to Know
I am visiting in summer. It is blistering hot and dry as an oven. On the road towards Doclea, not 15 minutes prior to reaching the site, is a grocery store called Idea. This is a chance to purchase a cold drink or snack to enjoy at the site, making a picnic of the trip if you will.
There are no toilets at Doclea or any facilities of any kind for that matter. It feels deserted. Visitors can walk around freely; nothing is roped off. There is a low chain link fence surrounding part of the site. I believe this is to separate the most ancient core of the city from the farmers fields that are actively in use.
The walk from Podgorica is pleasant with a sidewalk almost the entire way. It took me 1.5 hours to get there, as I’m located on the far side of the city.
There is no entrance fee, no cost at all. Doclea being the most significant archaeological site in the country, is definitely worth a visit. As a lover of ancient history, I was pleasantly surprised by this site. There are some beautiful pieces of the decorative architecture scattered throughout. Together with the neighbouring hillsides, distant mountain ranges and rivers, it’s a precious place indeed.
