Without a doubt, a visit to the city’s oldest and largest market is on my agenda. These places are my favourite way to watch a culture in action, listen to the local languages, see people interact and explore what is available. Don’t miss the beautiful & busy Siyob Bazaar in Samarkand for a very local and authentic experience.
Where to Go
Siyob bazaar is located (link here) near the centre of the city, and close to another historical madrasa that you won’t want to miss. Its absolutely huge, covering a space of 7 hectares in total. Divided into sections, there are upper and lower domes and areas separating souvenir type items, from fresh food, clothing, electronics and well just about everything. Its open every day but Mondays, from 7am to 7pm.
Upper Level
The upper most level is where visitors will find all of the souvenirs. There are rows and rows of pottery, handicrafts, textiles, local sweet treats and packaged snacks. Halva, crystalized sugar, nougat, dried fruits and nuts, find all of these things at this upper pavilion.
Lower Level
Now look for the single wide staircase that will take you down to the next level. Under the tall structure are the freshest fruits and vegetables. It is here I find quite a variety of root vegetables that I have never seen before. Interesting to see the large yellow carrots and that round light green turnip looking item.
At this time of the year there are specific things available such as young unripe apricots (dovcha). These are consumed by dipping them into salt and crunching the sour fruit seed and all. Another such item is the sugar beet (qand lavlagi), continually doused with this thick sweet brown liquid. This bazaar is full of such things, wonderful to see and learn about.
Follow the outside edge of this section of produce, and this is where all of the fruit juice vendors are set up. At the moment they are selling fresh squeezed orange and pomegranate juice. I purchased a small bottle of the pomm for 10k som or $1.15 CAD that makes a marvellous addition to my local breakfast.
Outside
Just beyond the covered area, is what I think is the most interesting part of the market. There will be a lane with ladies cleaning humongous bags of bright leafy greens. Beside them are vendors with bags bursting with nuts, raisins and other dried goods.
On the other side of that find the vendors with pyramid shaped piles of freshly shredded salad! Purchase by weight and then add your own dressing at home. These ladies have done all of the hard and tedious work. Those piles are just so picturesque I couldn’t help investigating to see what each blend contained.
Now just beyond this are the bread sellers!! Samarkand is known for its signature round bread, freshly made throughout the day in large clay ovens. The wet dough is stuck to the walls on the inside of these ovens and when the discs are golden brown, they are scraped off.
There are many patterns and designs on the breads and the antique stamps that create these patterns are quite sought after. This bread is so popular and such a hot seller, men are continually bringing inventory to these ladies stands.
Streets
On the street near the bread, find stalls that are cooking ready to eat food. It is at one of these that I see a lovely lady and her young boy frying up some dough item. Unable to resist the smell, I order one. The lad asks meat or potato? I chose the potato and he hands me a piping hot, half dinner plate size goodie. The cost is 3k som or $0.35 CAD, this completes my breakfast!
I find a nook on the sidewalk and sit down on a piece of old cardboard. There I dig into my fried dough and am instantly in food heaven. Oh my, the taste is just like an un-sweetened doughnut. Then I reach the filling, small pieces of potato mixed with the bright green flavour of an unfamiliar herb. Its absolutely divine. I drink my pomegranate juice in-between bites, and am in complete bliss. Don’t miss Siyob Bazaar it’s a local gem.
