It only took one single photograph to come across my screen years ago, for me to know I had to visit this place one day. The exquisite beauty and sheer magnitude of what I saw in that image was unbelievable. Well that day has arrived for me. The amazing Registan Square in Samarkand is even more incredible than I ever imagined.
What is Registan?
Registan is a large and historical public square in the city of Samarkand, surrounded on three sides by Islamic madrasas or schools. Centuries ago, the space was used for public announcements and executions. Before that it was the centre of a silk road city, rebuilt by King Timur after being destroyed by Ghengis Khan.
The morning I visited, the air was crisp and cold enough to see my breath. As I approached, I purposely kept my eyes cast downward, until I was standing in front of it all. When I looked up, I burst into tears, utterly overwhelmed with the beauty that stood before my eyes. Registan Square is simply stunning.
Tickets
Ticket price is around 70k-100k depending. I arrived just after 7:30am, before the square officially opens at 8am. People were walking around inside, so I thought it must be open. I approached the kiosk and asked the guard standing there if I could purchase a ticket.
The guard showed me a 100k som bank note and folded it up into a little shape. He then pointed to the open end of the tubular fence and motioned for me to put the money inside that. I did as he asked, placed my rolled-up bank note inside the fence and walked past with his nod of approval.
Ulugh Beg Madrasa
Beginning with the oldest school, Ulugh Beg was constructed by King Timur’s grandson in 1420 and sits on the left side of the vast square. A colossal size, it consists of two levels one of which housed the lecture rooms and the other the student’s dormitory ‘cells’. The open courtyard in the middle contains a small mosque.
There are two minarets that flank the front entrance. The entire structure is made from bricks that are covered in colourful and decorative tile. The early morning sun shines on this madrasa, setting the place aglow.
Tilakari Madrasa
At the back of Registan Square sits Tilakari Madrasa constructed between 1646-1660. Not only did this structure serve as an Islamic school, but it also served as the grand mosque for Samarkand.
The mosque is absolutely stunning to see inside, its relatively small size engulfed by the magnitude of the gold gilding and decoration.
The main façade of the madrasa is two levels, one for lectures and the other for the students’ living quarters. The morning I visited, the large tree inside the courtyard was in bloom and the birds were chirruping loudly as they flitted from one branch to another. An absolutely serene and surreal moment to be experiencing this historical place.
Sherdar Madrasa
This gorgeous and massive school is located on the right-hand side of the square. Sherdar Madrasa was built between 1619-1636 and has a very unique feature. Typically, figural elements of living beings are not depicted in Islamic design, however this one is decorated with two tigers. Each has a rising sun on their backs and they are magnificent creatures! ‘Sher’ means tiger and is what gives this school its name.
Absolutely covered inside and out with tile mosaics it’s a stunning building of huge proportions. With old wooden carved doors, antique hardware and original carved marble detailing, I cannot express how incredible these madrasas are.
It is almost impossible to give a description of the size of these buildings, for this I rely on photos with people in them. I am glad to have arrived early, when only a handful of visitors are inside this magical space. To explore in silence is a special experience. And to whet your appetite, I will tell you now, Registan Square is the tip of the iceberg when it comes to historical Islamic architecture here in Uzbekistan.
