Something that is a must see while visiting the capital, is the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque in Muscat. Its not often I find I can gain access to a mosque, especially as a female, but this one is open to non-Muslims everyday but Friday from 8am to 11am. And its free.
Logistics
Located on Sultan Qaboos Street, the mosque sits almost equidistant between the oldest part of the city called Muttrah and the newest part called Seeb. Visitors will enter through the gardens, not the main entrance that worshipers use. You can advise your Uber of this as they will most likely want to drop you at the entrance they are familiar with.
Once inside pass thru a checkpoint where your belongings will be scanned. Your clothing is then inspected to make sure it is suitable for the visit. If you require a scarf, thobe, abaya, skirt or cover up, there are two places you can borrow these pieces. The gift shop also sells items if you would prefer to purchase them.
Men should be wearing long pants and a shirt with sleeves. No shorts or tank tops. Women must be covered from head to foot, no bare shoulders, chest, knees etc. Head covering is mandatory. Once you pass this inspection point, you can now enter the gardens and walk up into the larger complex of the mosque.
Main Prayer Hall
Building began in 1994 and the entire mosque took six and a half years to complete. Made of sandstone from India, the main hall or musalla is extraordinary. This building alone measures almost 5,500 square meters and can accommodate 6,500 worshippers. The mosque as a whole can hold 20,000. Remove your shoes and place them into a cubby then head through those grand doors. What you see before you is quite something.
That exquisite blue patterned carpet? It is one single piece that contains 1,700 million knots. It took four years to complete using 600 workers and weighs a whopping 21 tonnes. Most of the 28 colours in the carpet are made from natural vegetable dyes.
Walk up through the centre now and notice the largest of the chandeliers. It measures 14 meters tall and contains an internal staircase for maintenance and cleaning. Up until 2018, it was the worlds largest chandelier and as was the carpet. At that time the grand mosque in Abu Dhabi was constructed and both pieces were surpassed there.
Reaching the far wall now, one sees the alcove where the Imam stands and leads the prayers. The tile work in this section is extraordinary. Walk left or right from here and around the entire room, noticing every detail and perfect symmetry of the hall.
Minarets
There are five in total, one that reaches 90 meters and the other four are 45 metres. They are a simple design yet striking in their stark beauty against the blue sky. Surrounding these inner buildings are flower beds and vast marble floors. I advise to keep you shoes off for the duration of your visit. Walk these cool marble sheets with bare feet, and experience this sacred place through your soles.
Corridors
Something not to miss is the outer corridors of the complex. These were actually one of my favourite parts of the mosque. Walk through the marble courtyard from any direction and you are sure to find them as they surround the entire complex.
Inside are small alcoves and each one is covered in a unique pattern and colour palette of tile. They are beautiful to see, walking slowing around the halls, with nary another human in sight. As the morning sun filters through the arches, a mystical setting unfolds and this is the real beauty of the architecture.
Finding Your Shoes
Now it is time to return to the cubby hole you placed your shoes in. Take a seat and inspect the bottom of your foot. After walking for almost one and a half hours in this sacred place, my feet were as bright pink as the day I was born. I was absolutely certain they were going to be black, but alas, the marble and entire complex is kept that clean.
Gardens
On you way out now, have a pleasant interlude and enter the gardens. With water running in small streams, huge shade trees, bright green lawns and vibrant flowers, this exit is the perfect place to feel at peace.
I arrived at 8:30 to beat the tour bus crowds (photo above) and I recommend that for everyone else. Head straight for the main prayer hall, to experience that completely empty as it is very special indeed. There is the smaller musallah for females that should not be missed too. The Sultan Qaboos Mosque is a wonderful place to experience the architecture and serenity of Muscat.
