One thing that makes Lucca such a unique and special place to visit are the old walls that surround the historical centre. There are actually three layers, some now almost invisible, and others perfectly intact. The enchanting ancient walls of Lucca Tuscany are a feature of importance and beauty.
Brief History
The historical city of Lucca has expanded in stages over the past two thousand years. Beginning with the Romans in the 1st & 2nd century, then the medieval period and finally the Renaissance era. All three of these phases created distinct walls surrounding the city at that time.
The most prominent fortifications today are of course the newest, built in the 16th century. They are the second largest, fully intact walls surrounding a renaissance city in the world. The largest encompass the city of Nicosia in Cyprus.
Roman Era
Very little of the Roman walls can be seen today. They were constructed in 180AD when the colonia of Luca was founded. Incorporated into the foundations of the medieval roads, only a small section underneath a church can be viewed.
A map inside the tourist centre shows the Roman city, complete with a theatre for gladiatorial shows. Parts of the theatre are visible, and I will talk about that in another post.
Medieval Walls
During the 11th century construction on the medieval walls began. The city of Lucca had expanded significantly and fortification was necessary. These walls were taller and encompassed the new city completely. They even had a moat that was used not only for defensive purposes but also to regulate the water supply. Today all that remains of these walls are two of the large gates and part of the moat, still running with water.
Renaissance Walls
The epic masterpiece that is somehow still completely intact and what makes Lucca so special. The Renaissance walls. By the 15th century, the city had expanded far beyond the medieval one. Those old tall and thin walls were not sufficient to withstand cannon fire, so a new, more robust fortification was necessary.
Originally there were three main doors or gates, with multiple smaller entry points that the garrison used. Today all of the ‘doors’ are open and pedestrians can access the city through any number of entry points.
The walls themselves are massively thick, constructed with brick that encompasses large amounts of earth and natural debris, beaten into a hard layer. Bastions that almost give the walls a floral-like pattern if seen from above, were tactical in nature.
Surrounding the entire four kilometers of walls, was a wide moat. In 1820, when the city was under Spanish control, the entire structure was converted into a park. The wide moats were filled in and those huge expanses of lawn, are the result. The upper portion of the walls were made into a promenade and lined with trees.
The Walls Today
On top of the bastions today, are large green spaces often filled with benches, play equipment and statuary.
The promenade is a very popular spot, with visitors and locals alike. From early in the morning, people come for exercise, running and walking. During the daytime, tourists may be riding rented bicycles and even horse drawn carriages pass by.
Views from atop the walls are spectacular at any time of day. From dawn when the light is crisp and filled with dew, to midday and early evening, when golden light descends.
The walls of Lucca are what sets this particular city apart from any other in Tuscany. Not only are they completely intact, but they function in such a way that they have become an inherent and thoroughly enjoyed part of the city. For myself? These walls have become a haven. I gravitate to them almost every day and walk at least half way around before I descend into the charming Centro Storico.
