One of my favourite ways to discover a new destination, is to let myself wander with abandon. Doing this, with no preconceived agenda, allows me the presence of mind, to really explore a space. Get lost with me in the Old Bazaar in Skopje Macedonia, lets discover magic.
Brief History
The Old Bazaar is located on the eastern bank of the Vardar River, just below the Skopje Fortress. It is one of the oldest and largest marketplaces in the Balkans and has been a trading area since the 12th century.
During the reign of the Ottoman’s, this bustling maze of narrow streets expanded significantly. At one time there were around thirty mosques. Several caravanserais (travellers inns), some of which remain today, Turkish bath houses and more can still be seen and visited.
Once the Ottomans were ousted, the area suffered and became neglected. Crime rates rose and many Macedonians did not visit this part of the city. With a new government, and around the year 2008, decisions were made to refurbish the Old Bazaar. Historical buildings and streets were repaired, restaurants and cafés filled the vacant buildings and a new life was released.
Entrances
There are many, as you can imagine in an area that is so large, however two are significant. First, arriving from Skanderbeg Square, visitors are met with a huge waterfall and mosaic fountain. The murals depicted behind the rush of water are of Albanian history and important figures. At the centre of the square is a soaring statue is Skanderbeg atop his horse. He was a medieval Albanian ruler who fought the Ottomans and is honored here.
The second significant entrance is a stone archway that marks the boarder between the Old Bazaar and the Bit Pazar, the largest marketplace in the city (see blog post).
Streets
Now that we find ourselves inside the Old Town, lets get down to business. Most of these cobblestone streets are narrow and very few follow a straight line for more than a little ways. It’s easy to get lost and turned around, but that is the fun of letting yourself wander.
Many of the streets have been covered in creative ways to provide shelter to shoppers who frequent the area. With most days in summer above 30 degrees celcius, this is a welcome addition.
Shops
These charming old streets are lined with a mixture of restaurants and shops. Many stores are selling souvenirs so this becomes the perfect spot to pick up some trinkets to take back home. Others are selling locally crafted items, such as leather goods, furs, wool rugs and metalware. And lets not forget the street dedicated to gold!
My favourite of all the shops are the antique stores and there are more than a few. One fella sets up most of his items along the sides of his alley. Others are tucked inside the dim stores, treasures either laid out aesthetically or all smashed together and covered with years of dust.
Cafes & Bars
Perhaps the most colourful part of the Old Bazaar is coming from the decorations that spill onto the streets from the local cafes and bars. There are many styles to entice shoppers to have a seat and enjoy a Turkish cay (tea) or a strong local coffee.
Some say this area is kitschy and I totally agree but in the best of ways. For I have learned recently, that this is not so much for the tourists as it is for the locals. You see, it is very common to see neighbourhood cafes filled with men, smoking, chatting and playing games. But where are the women I always wondered?
Well, the women want an experience. They are not interested in coming down to the boring neighbourhood café, sitting on hard plastic chairs and being close to noisy traffic. No. Instead, they want beauty, charm, and colour. These decorated cafés and bars are to entice the local groups of females who are out with their friends. A subtle difference between decorating to entice tourists and for locals.
Restaurants
Oh we won’t go hungry on this visit to the Old Bazaar! There are so many restaurants, selling local fresh salads, doners and big Turkish breakfasts. I can smell the sausage sizzling on the grills as I wander around. Have a sweet tooth? You are in luck, there is much baklava, home made nougat and similar type desserts, little restaurants that cater just to these delights.
Historical Places
Caravanserais, as mentioned above, are the historical inns for travellers. Built in the 15th century, there are three that remain in the Old Bazaar. One of two that are open and visitors can enter for free, is right in the core. Called Suli Han, today it is a space for artists to work and gather. Historically, travellers along the trade route, would arrive to town, keep their horses and livestock on the bottom floor and sleep in rooms on the upper floor. This particular caravanserai had 54 rooms!
The Bezisten was the original covered part of the market. Today it is an Islamic Cultural Centre. Visitors can walk inside for free, from any one of four entrances and see this old structure that was originally constructed in the 15th century. A great fire burnt it to the ground in 1689 and it was rebuilt as what we see today.
The Daut Pasha Hamam is one of two large Turkish bath houses in the vicinity. This one is currently being used as the National Art Gallery. Cost to enter is 100DN, unfortunately I didn’t have cash this day and they don’t take credit cards.
The building from the exterior is magnificent, consisting of 15 rooms and 13 domes. It was constructed in the 15th century and is a marvellous example of Ottoman architecture.
Mosques
There are a number inside the Old Bazaar, their minarets offering such a picturesque view at the end of the streets. The biggest and most wonderful, one that must be visited, is the Mustafa Pasha Mosque. Not technically inside the Old Bazaar but up a hill, at the highest point just outside the maze. It is an incredible site, built in 1492, and has a tomb in the gardens where Mustafa Pasha is buried. One of his daughters is laid to rest in an inscribed sarcophagus just behind the large domed tomb.
At the front of the mosque, look up inside the large domes. Painted there are the original blue decorative features, now over 500 years old. This is a grand old mosque, with beautiful and peaceful gardens, a large fountain and offers amazing views of the market below.
The Old Bazaar is the largest of its kind that I have had the pleasure to explore. I’ve been inside this area at least five times now, and each time I see something wonderful that I didn’t notice before. I let myself get lost and discover hidden gems, little nooks, crannies and always leave delighted. The City of Skopje is very lucky to have this historical treasure as part of its landscape.
