Stari Bar or Old Town Bar is the most important medieval city in the whole of the Balkans. This is according to the UNESCO World Heritage Organization. The city was abandoned just over 100 years ago, and what remains is simply extraordinary. Why you should visit Old Town Bar Montenegro is an easy question to answer.
Brief History
First mentioned in text in the 10th century, the city was created under Byzantine rule on an old Roman site. In the Middle Ages it bounces around between the Venetians and Serbians like a ping pong ball.
Finally in 1571 Bar becomes part of the Ottoman Empire and remains so until 1878. At that time, Montenegrin forces invade and end up detonating a 225kg bomb inside the aqueduct. With their water supply cut off, the Ottomans forfeit the city. Slowly the population declines and the city is abandoned. It faces its final demise in 1979 when a massive earthquake strikes the region.
Location
One of the most unique aspects of Old Bar, is its location. Built on a hill at the base of Mount Rumija, unlike all other Old Towns in the region, this one was not constructed at the coast. In fact, it is more than 3km inland from the sea.
Getting There
I have arrived by train from Podgorica. The trip is one hour long at a cost of €2.80 each way. The walk from the train station takes over an hour and is almost exclusively uphill. Walking through the countryside is absolutely incredible, with views that will take your breath away.
The rural scenes of flowers, vegetable gardens, olive groves and chickens is charming and makes the long walk a pleasant one.
If you are arriving on a cruise ship, you will likely take a taxi to town from the port. The day I visited Old Bar, a cruise ship was in dock. The town was full of visitors, as I’m sure any cruiser is used to. I however am not and it was a surprise to be surrounded by so many tourists.
I overheard on several occasions, cruisers mentioning that their taxi fares negotiated, for the ride up to the Old Town were between €15-20. Expect to pay the same in return. Taxis are lined up in force, for your departure back to the ship.
The Lead Up
Upper Old Town Bar is actually a massive archaeological site that is fortified and has an entrance and fee. The current cost for an adult is €5. The lead up to that site is also considered Old Town but the lower part, where locals still reside.
Here visitors will find one main artery that is lined with souvenir shops, restaurants and bars. Because of the cruise visitors, this part can be exceptionally crowded as everyone is limited by the width of this singular road.
The shops are offering all sorts of goods, from sunscreen and hats, to the local hard liquor called rakija. There are ATM machines here if you need one.
Food
Restaurants are providing a variety of local foods to try. I had arrived here just in time for a late breakfast so decided to sit and order a typical Montenegrin one. A sweet treat, this is called Priganice and are fried dough balls, similar to a doughnut. There is a dozen to a plate (actually quite a few more than that) and they are typically accompanied with cheese and honey.
My meal arrived piping hot, so much so I couldn’t touch them. I gently pried each pillow open, placed a piece of soft white cheese inside and dipped it in the honey. Oh my, what a most lovely breakfast to enjoy in the surroundings of a medieval village! Cost at the Citadela restaurant is €4.50. Paired with a cappuccino and I was in heaven.
Now with tummy filled to the brim, I set off to see the star of the show, Stari Bar.
Entrance
To get into the archaeological site, simply follow the old stone road uphill a little further. Walk through the medieval gate and join the queue for the entrance ticket. Once procured, the site is yours to explore.
There is A LOT to see here. Because it was abandoned so recently, many of the structures are intact or near so. On the detailed map provided, sites include the Customs House 15th cen, St Nicolas Church 13th cen, Gun Powder Storage 18th cen, Citadel 10th to 19th cen, Aqueduct, 3 more churches plus one cathedral 11th to 15th cen, the Clock Tower from 1752, Turkish Bath 18th cen, large medieval multistory house that is now a small museum, Bishop’s palace 16th cen, and multiple ramparts, walls, gates and towers. Phew! Here are my favourites.
The Citadel
At the peak of the hillside with incredible views is the Citadel. There are numerous staircases to take visitors up to the highest points, where you can turn around, look back and see exactly how the town is situated.
These massive walls are astounding to see, especially as they have no support system. Some chunks have visibly fallen, almost looking sliced, from the earthquake. Walk all over this amazing site, follow the paths, look into small dark rooms, and out of the gun holes in the walls.
The Aqueduct
One of the things I was most intrigued with is the old aqueduct. I found the best views from climbing up the citadel and looking over the old walls. Down below I can see this massive stone arched snake, weaving its way through the landscape.
Its absolutely beautiful, and those lovely old homes that still have residents, hanging out their laundry to dry in the mid day sun, how charming.
Churches & Monastery
Stari Bar contains multiple medieval stone churches and monasteries, many of which were turned into mosques when the Ottomans captured the city. Some remain fairly intact while others are merely a shell.
A lovely little stone church, intact and a respite from the sunshine is St. John. Walk inside this haven and admire the decorative icons.
What is left of the Cathedral is a larger room filled with wooden pews and an altar. On the table inside, visitors leave monetary donations, out in the open. There is a small upstairs portion here too, with a wooden balustrade.
At the side of another church, all that remains are precious exposed frescoes. The one facing the paths is all that most people will see. While it is magnificent, explore behind here. There is another beautiful painting on the back side, although faint from the sun exposure and lack of protection.
In the alcove to the left is yet remnants of more frescoes, it hurts my heart to see these aging with no care taken to preserve them.
The Lapidarium
A stone building, quite plain and unadorned from the exterior. However, walk inside, under the low archway, and enter a beautiful dome!
Lining the walls are shelves containing hundreds of artifacts from the medieval city. From Islamic grave markers to small pieces of pained plaster from the homes. It’s amazing to see it all and imagine how Bar must have appeared 500 years ago.
The Clock Tower
The most recent addition to the city was the clock tower. Here in the capital Podgorica, there is one very similar in nature. In Bar, this tower is a prominent feature of the landscape. In fact, walking up from the train station, it was the first thing that caught my eye on the landscape in front of me.
There is a ledge up above, where one can walk to and have a photograph with the tower in the background looking down the valley and out to the sea.
The Museum
Without overwhelming you any further, I leave readers with the museum. Free to enter with your admission, there is not a whole lot to see here. What you will view, gives visitors an idea of the essence of what still lays in situ.
For down below your feet, as you have walked and explored this old city, lies most of it yet to be discovered. Its buried, grown over, safely stored for another era when future archaeologist will have the funding to dig deep and find its hidden secrets.
After leaving the archaeological site, I walk down, back through the shops and restaurants. A sign on the way in caught my eye and its all I can think about now in the heat of the afternoon. An iced cold pomegranate beer. Without further ado, I find a spot and order my drink along with a sparkling water. I sit and reflect on all I have just seen, feeling exhausted yet incredibly blessed that I have been able to explore this wondrous historical site called Stari Bar.
