I think one thing that many travellers look forward to is trying new foods everywhere they go. It is certainly one of my favourite parts of travel. Being on a frugal budget however, does limit the number of times I can dine out. What this does though, is makes each one of those occasions special for me. Here are some of the most delicious eats & treats in Sicily that have made this visit memorable.
Bakery Breakfast
Let’s start with breakfast and coffee time treats. In Italy, it is most common to eat a sweet breakfast that consists of a simple cornetto (similar to a croissant) or a brioche bun with a cup of coffee. Big salty and savoury dishes like eggs and the like are not consumed in the morning.
Very close to my Airbnb is a delightful bakery called Panificio Ragona. Mostly known for their arancini, it is another goodie that calls my name as I stroll past the door each day. I enter and head for the humble ciambelle fritte, closely related to a doughnut. But not just any doughnut. The simple, pillowy soft yeast doughnut of ages gone by. With a faint hint of lemon and covered in sugar, to enjoy these on my sunny balcony, still warm from the fryer, is a thing of beauty. Cost is €1.
Another bakery staple is the traditional Sicilian treat called a Genovese alla Ricotta. Made from a simple shortbread like cookie dough, the inside is filled with a sweetened and sometimes lemon flavoured ricotta cheese. The first time I tried these was on Mozia island, and I was instantly obsessed. Dine in or take away and they are wrapped up like a little present. Cost in town is €1.5, at a tourist site I paid €4.
Lunch Munch
Normally my lunch is inside my flat and consists of a snack plate of delectable items I have sourced from the local markets. These include fruits, cheese, cold meats, nuts and perhaps a slice of rustic bread. While I was visiting Castelvetrano however, I had the opportunity to live close to a café/gelateria/bakery. Here at Café Tosto they have an enormous case filled with all things savoury and snack like.
After asking the server what the fillings were, I selected on the first day, and subsequently after that, the Ragu bun. Imagine a slightly sweet brioche type bun with crispy thin skin and soft fluffy interior. Now fill that with what I know as ‘mince’. A ground beef cooked with peas in tomato sauce. Oh my, let’s just say I scurried back to my flat and enjoyed those thoroughly with an iced cold beer after a long morning of exploration. Cost is €1.50.
Dinner Delights Marsala
While in Sicily this visit, I have been fortunate to enjoy a later meal two times. This is a very special treat for me and only happened because I was celebrating a personal milestone. My first experience was in Marsala at Vecchia Salumeria.
Walking through the front door, one will see a gorgeous Italian deli. However, if you continue on, there is a secluded garden area out back. I took a seat and after perusing the menu, could not resist the ‘Tagliere Misto Siciliano – The Cutting Board’.
I knew I would be served the very best meal by this family as the deli is their specialty. And it did not disappoint. I ate and ate, savoury meats, local cheeses, olives and all sorts of small dishes bursting with flavour. At the end of my meal, the owner came over and offered me the house liquor as a gift. It completed the experience beautifully. Cost almost €30 OUCH!
Dinner Delights Castelvetrano
My second meal out was at Da Giovanni Trattoria in Castelvetrano. If you have never been to Italy before, the very best place to get a meal that is geared for the locals and not the tourists is at a trattoria. These are family run restaurants, usually generational, and serve not only the most authentic food but the whole experience as well.
At Da Giovanni I had just that. I peeked in through the front door, hesitant at first as it didn’t look like it was open. A gentleman approached and waved for me to be seated anywhere I liked. At this point the restaurant was empty.
Once I had made myself comfortable, he came over and instead of providing a menu, listed off a few dishes, in Italian. The only word I recognized was ‘bolognese’ so I repeated that and hoped for the best. Out came the house wine accompanied by my bottle of fizzy water. Then a basket of the most delicious nutty flavoured hearty bread. A small plate of nibbles soon arrived, my first taste of famous Castelvetrano olives. So good.
Now for the main dish. In all the time I have spent in Italy, I have never had Bolognese before. There has always been something else on the menu that I have wanted more. All I can say is that every morsel of this dish was slurped up with glee. I was a little afraid that it was only made for me because I was a tourist. But by the time my dish arrived, there were other diners, locals, and they were also ordering the Bolognese. Hands down the best and most authentic meal I have had in Sicily to date. Cost is €15.
Treats
One thing that is eaten in Italy and usually with breakfast if you can imagine, is called a granita. It is flavoured slushy ice, served in a dish and usually consumed with a brioche bun. As I was walking around Castelvetrano, I spotted a gelato truck in several places.
When the day became hot and I was feeling parched, I wandered over with the intention of having a gelato. Instead, the owner and operator, insisted that I have the lemon flavoured granita. I was happy to oblige as he would know his product best.
Taking my little cup over to a shaded bench in front of the most gorgeous Baroque church, I began to eat. Oh my, I was overwhelmed by the pure taste of sweetened, ice-cold lemon. It is exactly what my taste buds wanted and needed in that moment. How did he know? Cost is €2.
There is something so natural and pure about Italian food and specifically Sicilian food. The flavours are real and simple. Not convoluted with sauces and spices. Down to earth goodness that is both memorable and incredible. If I had a larger budget there are two things I would spend it on. One being to have moderately nicer accommodation than I normally do, and the other is food. Tasting and trying new foods is such a delight.
