Initially I was going to use Castelvetrano as a stopover in which to see Selinunte. However, after an exploratory mission of the historical areas, I see there is reason to extend my stay in this intriguing city. Here are the best things to see in Castelvetrano Sicily.
Brief History
In the whole scheme of things, Castelvetrano is not that old. First mentioned in text from the 13th century, the oldest building seems to be that of a church from 1412. In 1564 the city evolved from a county to a principality and its first reigning prince was Carlo d’aragona Tagliavia.
Castelvetrano seems to have evolved as a hub for the surrounding agricultural enterprises. The area is rich with fertile grounds, the perfect place to grow grapes and olives.
Most of the historical sector is centred around three piazzas or squares. These are linked by small alleys and narrow roads, and are easily accessible. At each one, find café’s, local eateries and at least one medieval church.
Chiesa di San Domenico
Lovingly referred to as Sicily’s Sistine Chapel. Originally built in 1470, it was in the 16th century that it was transformed into what we see today, a mausoleum for the Aragona Family and burial place of the first Prince.
Enter via a side door and you initially see a small chapel with an interesting oil painting from 1602. Walking past this, now enter the main body of the church. I can guarantee your mouth will drop open at this point.
Directing your eyes forward, this is what you have come to see and it might just take your breath away.
Soaring above the altar is the Tree of Jesse. This is a stucco masterpiece, a family tree. Beginning with Jesse, the father of King David reclining at the bottom, let your eyes wander ever upwards. At the top is the Virgin Mary surrounded by angels.
Walk behind the large altar now and view the marble sarcophagus that contains Prince Carlo and his wife. Above you is the vaulted dome of the Chapel of the Choir. Painted between 1574 and 1577, it is a masterful work. Stand there, twirl around and become enchanted by the Mannerism style of art.
Open from 10am to 12pm each day, the cost to enter is currently €3.
Teatro Selinus
With a stunning façade that mimics the nearby ancient Greek ruins of Selinunte, this building was constructed at the end of the 19th century. In 1908 the first performance opened the theatre that is still being used today.
Walk up the first level and admire the marble statue and its position inside the piazza. If the theatre is open, have a peek inside the doors or better yet, see a show.
Chiesa Madre
Mother Church is the largest and most prominent in the city of Castelvetrano. A Catholic Basilica located in the centre of town and first constructed in 1520. The medieval stone exterior changes quite dramatically as you walk around the structure, almost taking on a castle-like appearance from certain angles. Notice those huge wooden doors and embellished hinges.
Inside, it’s a marvel of rich deep wood, white stuccoed walls and stone framed windows. Look upwards to the roof made of large old beams the centre of which is ornately painted and dated 1564. In the 17th century, the Prince added many of the decorative stucco pieces and the paintings. Don’t miss the original baptismal font and coach.
Fountain of Nymphs
Located across the smaller of two piazzas from Chiesa Madre, on the corner of a building is the Fontana della Nimfa built in 1615. Created to commemorate the construction of the aqueducts, the fountain is such a beautiful and unexpected sight.
Four tiers of marble topped with a nymph seated on a cliff, can you imagine how this would have looked and felt in that era, gushing with fresh water? What a sight that would have been. The fountain stands almost nine meters tall and at the very top see the Castelvetrano coat of arms.
Getting Lost
Let yourself do that here. Take any of the little roads off the main piazzas, roam, and let yourself notice the beauty around you. One thing I fell in love with right away was how unpretentious Castelvetrano is.
The warm facades, simple balconies and large shade trees offer such a peaceful aesthetic. As you wander, you will pass sites such as the 19th century garden called Villa Margherita. Wander in, smell the flowering trees and marvel at the unique palms. The palm frond is part of the coat of arms of Castelvetrano.
Pass by the Vugghia di L’acqua, a small remnant of the original aqueducts that were constructed in 1615. See statues, medieval stone structures and renaissance sidewalks.
If the gelato trucks are anywhere you are at, imbibe. It’s a surreal experience to sit upon the old marble steps of a baroque church and enjoy a sweet and creamy pistachio & lemon treat. Castelvetrano is so much more than I had expected. I could happily stay here for weeks, wandering these friendly streets and warm avenues.
