The previous post has had me searching up and down the alleys of this little village trying to spot this elusive craft. I’ve met a lovely woman who has taken me by the hand and is now leading me to what I think might be it. Discovering the best Vietnamese fish sauce at Nam O Village may actually come to fruition!
Fish Sauce
After being led through a few alleys I have been brought into the gated front area of a house. At one side is a work area with two rooms and a covered outdoor space. I immediately see a male who proffers the largest grin. He motions me forward and I enter his work area.
I am led to the larger of the two rooms and here I see massive ceramic containers filled to the brim with tiny fish! This special sauce has been made in Nam O for hundreds of years.
Used are the tiny sardines that are caught off the coast here. They are placed into these containers in layers, with a very specific type of old salt added in between each layer. This mixture of salt and fish sits dormant in these pots for 18 months! At that time, it is removed and drained and this is the area he shows me next.
Straining
After the brewing period, the pulp is moved into these bamboo sieves that are lined with cloth. The mixture drains for days into the buckets below.
When all the golden elixir is collected, it is now stored for another 12 months to ripen and soften the flavours of the sauce. It is only then that it is ready to be bottled and sold.
Kindness
My lady friend has remained with me while I have been interacting with the fish sauce man and now wants to lead me somewhere else. With many ‘kam ungs’ I leave this friendly man and thank him for his kindness.
Down an alley or two and I have been led to another fish sauce maker. This one though, seems almost staged for tourists. The gates are locked, the owner is away, so I am unable to go inside. The feeling of this shop is more commercial, specifically made for tour groups to see. I am so glad I was shown the previous fish sauce man and his authentic space.
I say my goodbyes to the Vietnamese lady who has been my friend since the temple. She has shown me such kindness, leading me around and making sure I have seen enough.
Restaurant
By now I am really parched and in search for something to drink. As I’m walking down an alley, I turn a corner and see buckets of seafood on the ground. My curiosity is peaked so I wander inside and am greeted by a woman. She lets me have a look and investigate the mornings catch.
This is actually a restaurant and they will be serving these critters to the evening crowd. I do spot a stand of sauces for sale and am greeted by a man who points to the sauce on the top shelf. This is his fish sauce that he has made himself! He proudly points to his name on the shop sign. Finally, I can see the fish sauce at its end of the line state! I’m thrilled to meet him.
River
Having left that restaurant, I now head in a desperate search for a sit-down drink. I happen upon the river and have searched my google maps for a place to find a coffee. As I head in that direction I am enchanted by the river and a massive net that is held aloft over the surface of the water.
There is quite a lovely paved walkway along the river bank that leads me directly to my café of choice. As I step inside, I am greeted by a lush environment and am glad I remembered to douse myself in mosquito repellent this morning.
There are four friendly lads inside enjoying a coffee, and I take a table down the side and nearer the pond. I decide to order a fresh squeezed orange juice and iced coffee. Both arrive with the complimentary cups of tea and I relax into my quiet space and reflect on the morning’s adventures. Total cost of these drinks was 40,000 dong or about $2 Canadian.
Temple
Having rested and feeling hydrated, the last place I want to explore here is the beach. That is where the fish for the sauce is being sourced and brought onto shore and I might see some boats too. I make my way down to the edge of the village and cross the larger road. First thing I spot is a gorgeous empty temple. I have a wander around and love all of the mosaic décor that adorns these older temples.
The bright yellow pairs so well with the colourful statues and broken china pieces that are used for the mosaics. Here I can spot various critters from the sea, perfectly chosen for a temple that is located at the coastline.
Beach
Now I step directly onto the sand and walk along the beach. I can see a plethora of coconut boats in the cove. Most have been pulled up onto the beach, the fishermen having finished their tasks and gone home for the day.
As I walk along, I can study the oars, netting, anchors and other bits and bobs that these boats contain.
I don’t spend much time here, by now its hot as blazes and I’m ready to return home. I cross back through the powdery sand and return to the temple. From here I hail a Grab ride and while I await his arrival, I reflect on how lucky I have been to discover this quaint and charming village. To meet these beautiful Vietnamese people and be shown a snippet of their lives is truly what travel is all about.
